Two things that come to our mind when we think of Kinnaur are the apples and the up-close and mesmerizing view of the snow capped mountains. And fortunately, every bit of this is true. Although an arduous journey from Shimla (8-9 hours), Kinnaur is absolutely worth the long distance provided you have time and are not too picky about the road conditions.
Sangla Valley in Kinnaur
Kinnaur district is in the north-eastern part of Himachal Pradesh bordering Tibet. Historically, Kinnaur was once part of the princely state of Rampur Bushahr which, is a bustling city on the banks of the Sutlej 100KM before you enter Sangla in Kinnaur. Kinnaur today is dotted with small villages, ancient Himachali temples and snow covered mountains and is highly sought after by travelers due to it’s remoteness, easy access to Spiti, breathtaking views and outdoor activities.
When in Kinnaur you can go on village walks to observe the unique and rich architecture especially those of the temples. A short drive from Sangla you can also visit the Kamru Fort which is a towering seven storey wood and stone building known to have been built over 800 years ago. You have to walk uphill to reach the Fort after a certain point so be prepared to bring along a bottle of water. When entering the Fort which also houses a temple, keep in mind not to wear any leather on you and carry a cap/hat/shawl to cover your head.
Kamru Fort
Chitkul Village
A drive to Chitkul is recommended. Chitkul happens to be the last village on the Indian border with Tibet. You can stay there as well but the accommodation is very basic and may not be to everyone’s liking especially when it gets really cold at night. A bit further from the village is the Indian Army check post beyond which no civilians are permitted. We recommend that if you’re fit you should walk the way back to Chitkul village from the check post. It is an easy walk over a metaled road and the views of the towering mountains and the Baspa river below are definitely worth it.
If you’re a birdwatcher, birdwatching in Kinnaur is outstanding. Alpine birds such as rosefinches, accentors, Monal, snow pigeons and birds of prey such as the Lammergeier and Himalayan Griffon are commonly observed on foot when birding in Rakcham Wildlife Sanctuary, agricultural fields, apple and apricot orchards. Click here for a list of birds spotted by us during our visit to the region in May 2024.
Blue-fronted Redstart, Rakcham Wildlife Sanctuary
Himalayan Griffon
Locals have spotted the Himalayan brown and black bears, musk deer, Himalayan thar, jackals and leopards as well. During your walks keep a look out for the pika, a small mouse/rabbit sized mammal foraging in the rocky mountainside.
Finally, Kinnaur is perfect for those who love to walk and hike. With several trails from easy to difficult, you can hike your way from Rakcham to Batseri or from Rakcham to Chitkul, go deeper inside the wildlife sanctuary and so on. A local experienced guide well familiar with the routes can be arranged for you and so can a packed breakfast should your hike extend past your hotel’s breakfast hours. Bring a pair of sturdy walking shoes, binoculars and a camera if you’re into landscape and wildlife photography because Kinnaur gives you plenty of opportunities for both
Hiking in Rakcham
Breakfast with a view
The altitude in Kinnaur district ranges from 2,300 meters to 6,800 meters. Places like Sangla, Rakcham etc. are under 2,500 meters however, Chitkul is at an altitude of 3,500 meters. For many going onwards to Spiti, the road trip from Chandigarh is ideal as it gives them an opportunity to acclimatize gradually before they make it to altitudes in excess of 4,000 meters.
Kinnaur can be visited from March to June when it’s mostly rain free. If you’re in the valley in June you may see apples and apricots on trees and even pluck them right off the tree as you go along your hike/walk. July to September is generally not recommended due to the rainy season as there could be landslides and roads may get blocked. October and November are once again ideal before it gets too cold and begins to snow. You can also visit Kinnaur in the winter season when it snows however, make sure you have a 4×4 vehicle and that you keep a buffer of a few days in your trip as you may get locked in if it snows heavily and the highway is not cleared well in time.
Baspa River in Snow
Trekking in Sangla Valley in Snow
With noticeable impacts of climate change, always carry extra layers of warm clothing with you no matter when you visit Kinnaur as the weather could be unpredictable. On our recent visit to Kinnaur, we got snowfall and -10 Celsius on May 1, which is normally the start of the summer season! We didn’t complain much as the next day the weather cleared up, the sun was shining and there was a fresh coat of snow everywhere.
A fair amount of planning has to go when visiting Kinnaur. Many cover the journey from Shimla to Kinnaur in one day but they miss out on all the places in between which are very much worth stopping at for a night if not more. This long journey gets very tiring as it’s completely on winding mountain roads with bad patches in between and not recommended if you’re traveling with children and senior citizens. Here is our preferred route when visiting Kinnaur from Chandigarh.
Day 1 – Chandigarh to Mashobra (4 hours)
Day 2 – Mashobra to Sangla (7 hours)
Day 3 to 5 – Explore Kinnaur
Day 6 – Sangla to Narkanda (5 hours)
Day 7 – Narkanda to Chandigarh airport (5 hours)
Good quality hotels are limited in the above stretch and you will be up for a huge disappointment if you book last minute especially during the peak travel months of May and June.
Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinch, Rakcham Wildlife Sanctuary
