Goa beyond beaches? While some of Goa’s beaches are still uncrowded and have a great vibe, tourists visiting the former Portuguese colony are increasingly on the lookout for experiences beyond beaches (and shacks). We are not saying that you should skip Goa’s beaches altogether but if you’re in Goa for more than just a weekend and are on the lookout for nature and uncrowded spaces, then you may just find this story intriguing.
Fontainhas, Goa’s Latin Quarter
The places and experiences mentioned below are personally tried and tested by us and we endeavor to constantly add new places, so please do visit this story or get in touch with us for the latest and greatest on Goa Beyond Beaches.
Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary: The largest of Goa’s four protected wildlife areas, Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary is a haven for wildlife and nature enthusiasts. The densely forested sanctuary in the Western Ghats is good to visit all year round, even in the monsoon. The monsoon season is great for herping or watching amphibians and reptiles of all colors, shapes and sizes. Other times of the year, our feathered friends such as the Malabar Trogon, Sri Lankan Frogmouth, Flame Throated and the Yellow-browed Bulbuls keep many birdwatchers entertained.
Draco, a Flying Lizard in Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary, Goa
Flame-throated Bulbul
Other than birds and critters, the Sanctuary is also home to several species of mammals namely, leopard, sloth bear, mouse deer, civets, Malabar giant squirrel and the slender loris. The slender loris is a very unique looking nocturnal primate, one that is venomous! There are a few hotels and lodges that that operate in the border of the Sanctuary. It is in these resorts that you should stay for a couple of nights if you are into wildlife and nature. Going back and forth daily from Panjim to the Sanctuary will cost you a lot in taxi fare. Besides wildlife, there are several hiking trails leading to waterfalls that you can explore accompanied by a local guide / naturalist.
Divar Island: Home to ancient Hindu temples, the sleepy island of Divar is uncrowded and a mere 15 minute ferry ride from Panjim city. You can load up your car on the ferry which costs 15 INR, if you’re on a scooter or bike it is free to use the ferry to get in and out of Divar Island. Divar Island lies on the Mandovi River and the hilly terrain was used as a look out for the Portuguese to spot and alert the mainland colony if any naval vessels belonging to rival Dutch and the English factions as they entered old Goa. By the 16th century, the ancient Hindu temples were either destroyed by the Portuguese and Muslims or the idols moved away from Divar Island by Hindu Goans.
Ferry to Divar Island
Saptakoteshwar Temple ruins, Divar Island, Goa
Today, ruins of the Saptakoteshwar temple built in the 12th century is what remains of ancient Hindu temples in Goa. When on the Island you should also visit the commanding Church of Our Lady of Compassion which is built on a hill top and has panoramic views of the island. You can also do a motor boat ride at the jetty located right outside the Devaaya Resort’s entrance. The 45 minute boat ride is very interesting as the boat captain talks to you about the mangroves that surround the island and if you’re lucky you may also spot some birds and marsh crocodiles. Divar Island is large and you definitely need transportation to take you to various places within the island. Either hire a cab or rent a scooter to explore this largely un-spoilt island of Goa.
Zuari River Boat safari: The largest river in Goa, Zuari happens to be a tidal river. Early mornings when the tides are low, a boat safari on the Zuari is a must especially if you enjoy birdwatching. Bring a pair of binoculars and a camera as out of the 12 species of kingfishers (birds, not the beer) in India, six can be spotted during a 2-3 hour boat ride. Black-capped, Collared, Stork-billed are what many get to see during the safari. The boat safaris start early morning from 6:30AM/7AM – 9:00/9:30AM and are done in groups of four or more people. You can book the entire boat as well provided you are willing to shell out the extra money. Local guides hired by the boat company accompany you on the safari. These guides know the main bird species but if you’re looking to go above and beyond then you need to hire a more seasoned naturalist. Tip: When on the boat keep a look out for the Fiddler Crab and the mud-skippers.
Black-capped Kingfisher
Tambdi Surla Temple, Goa
Tambdi Surla Temple: Deep inside the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary is the 13th century Lord Shiva temple built during the Kadamba dynasty rule. Driving to the temple feels like going on a safari as you’re surrounded by dense forests. This largely uncrowded Temple is a must visit if you’re spending a few days in the Sanctuary. If you’re a birdwatcher, carry your camera and binoculars as you may spot some species near the temple, look out for the Blue-eared Kingfisher which is very similar in appearance to the common kingfisher.
Dudhsagar Waterfall: One of India’s tallest waterfalls, Dudhsagar is also located deep inside Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary. During the non-monsoon months you can visit the waterfall by hiring a jeep. The jeep can be booked and boarded from Collem whereas the entry tickets can be bought online. It takes almost an hour by jeep to reach the drop off point to the waterfall, after which it is a very uneven and rocky walk to the actual waterfall. If you have mobility issues, this is not for you. In the monsoon months, the jeep safari track is closed as the river gets flooded and the only way to see the waterfall is by via the local train at the Dudhsagar stop. The train halts much before the falls and you have to walk on the railway tracks for about a kilometer till you reach the waterfall. Tip: Do Dudhsagar right after the monsoon season i.e. October, it is then that the jeeps start operating again and the waterfall is at it’s mightiest. Also, when there make sure you don’t carry any food in your hands or eat anything while there as there are vicious monkeys everywhere.
Dudhsagar Waterfall
Fontainhas Food Walk
Fontainhas: The 250 year old Latin quarter in Panjim does a fine job at retaining it’s old world charm. Thanks to active restoration of the heritage buildings, you can walk on the pedestrian friendly narrow streets of Fontainhas. The streets are lined up with well maintained (and colored) villas and balconies reminding you of its European past. Today, Fontainhas is home to several chic cafes, restaurants, art galleries and boutique hotels and shops. The area is mostly clean and organized making Fontainhas’ heritage and food walks a must do for all age groups. We highly recommend putting on your walking shoes one evening to cover the food and culture of Fontainhas on foot. While there are organized tours that take you to the best places in Fontainhas, you can also do them on your own if you’re looking to do things at your own pace, budget and interests.
